Changing the fuel filter is easy. It isn't the cleanest routine maintenance operation, but the job can be accomplished in a half hour or so once the car's rear is raised. The filter is easily accessed behind the plastic shield on the passenger's side of the car, in front of the rear suspension. The filter traps impurities in the fuel. As the filter collects particles, fuel flow is impeded. Labored starting, rough idle and stalling are prominent symptoms of fuel-system problems.
A clogged filter also causes the car to run lean, compromising acceleration and power. The fuel filter is the easiest and most-affordable fuel system fix.
Inspect the existing filter. Depending on model year, R SLKs came with 2, 3, and 4 port filters. Make sure you get the correct replacement for your year. Recommended service interval is 60, miles or 5 years. Potential for fire is always a concern when working on fuel systems so make sure you take all safety precautions and have a fire extinguisher close. Disconnect the battery's negative cable to minimize possibilities of sparks.
Work in a well-ventilated area away from open flame. Let the car cool down before beginning. Fully heated catalytic converters can ignite combustibles. Ideally, empty the fuel tank, either by siphoning through the filler or by disconnecting the fuel hose that feeds the fuel pump, but you can easily pinch the fuel hose closed that leads from the tank to the fuel pump.
Special tools are available for this purpose but you can use a C-clamp or a vice grips and a rag, just make sure you don't gouge the hose, and pinching it at bends isn't recommended. The OEM sliding-style hose clamps are realistically one-use only. Spring-type clamps are DIY-friendly and are normally packaged with the new fuel pump. In a pinch, worm-gear clamps have decades of proven effectiveness, providing they aren't over or under tightened.
I always replace my clamps when replacing the filter. Remember about a pint of fuel will be trapped in the filter. Capture and dispose of it properly. When installing the new filter make sure you note the direction of the arrow on the replacement filter.
It should point inboard. After you install the new filter and before lowering the car and reinstalling the plastic shield, add fuel, start the car and check for leaks at the fuel hoses and clamps.
Begin by safely raise and supporting the car. Please see our article on how to safely raise and support your vehicle. Next disconnect the battery ground strap. Please see our article on battery maintenance for help. Fuel pressure is relieved at the rail's Schrader valve, under a 15mm gold nut.
Large Image Extra-Large Image.How do you know if a throttle position sensor TPS is bad? Of course, some symptoms can tell you when a TPS may be bad. But these symptoms may come from other bad sensors, parts, or components.
So you need to conduct some tests. The TPS connects to the throttle plate on the throttle body. The position sensor has a variable resistance potentiometer or contact points, depending on model that sends a varying voltage signal to the Power Control Module PCM, your car's engine computer according to the position of the throttle plate.
This plate rotates when you depress the gas pedal to allow more air to enter the intake manifold. With the engine running, the position of the throttle plate along with other sensors tells the computer how much fuel the engine needs at any given moment. So, without the correct signal coming from the TPS, you begin to notice drivability problems.
Fortunately, it's not that hard to test the sensor. You can use the position sensor operating characteristics to test it using a digital multimeter DMM. If you haven't used a multimeter before, just take a look at the next video. In a couple of minutes you'll be ready to test the throttle position sensor in your car. And if you're looking for an inexpensive but good DMM for your toolbox—you need to use one for many DIY car projects—you can find one at your local auto parts store or online.
The most typical failure you'll find on a TPS is wear, a short or an open on the circuit of the contacts or variable resistor. This guide will help you test the throttle position sensor in a few minutes and know whether you need to replace it.
Irregular Vibration, noticeable at idle
The most common TPS test is to measure for resistance ohms or voltage at the various positions, including throttle plate closed, half open and fully open.
We'll use voltage to test the TPS here.
Open the hood and remove the air cleaner assembly where it connects with the throttle body. Inspect the throttle plate and the walls of the throttle body surrounding the throttle plate. Carbon buildup can prevent the throttle plate from closing properly and moving freely.
Locate the TPS mounted on the side of the throttle body. The TPS is a small plastic block with a three wire connector. Carefully unplug the electrical connector from the TPS.Log in or Sign up. Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums.
Fuel Filter Replacement
Learn More. My SLK has a misfire when I accellerate.Accident on i 25 today fort collins
When driven sedately all seems well and will accelerate slowly to 80mph as far as I have taken it. If I accelerate hard the engine will rev to between to rpm then go into misfire and not rev any further.
After I have done this the engine runs really rough at idle and has no power. If I then switch off ignition leave a couple of minutes and restart it seems ok again. Diagnostic meter says: P random misfire P cyl 1 misfire P fuel trim bank 1 P cyl 4 misfire P camshaft position sensor bank 1 or single sensor I have renewed HT leads but do not want to start replacing lots of parts if they are not needed.
Can anyone advise please. You need to clear all those codes and see what comes back the first time the fault re occurs. There are many common culprits.Stability and the first betti number
WG M-BJul 14, Hi, How many miles are on the clock? RobCClassJul 14, Hi, You say you have replaced the two HT leads, but have replaced the two plug caps under the coils?
Thanks WG I cleared codes. Renewed coils and plug caps, cleaned maf, took for a run and codes came up again as before???? Air leak? Make sure all air intake hasn't leaks. Inspect throttle body, it's connections and throttle body o-ring gasket. With your mileage there is possibility that leaks is there. My c got 94k miles and when I approached to clean throttle body p misfire occured with some cylinder misfires this gasket wasn't there worn.
What did you clean the MAF sensor with? How oily was it? My guess here would definately be the MAF sensor, which are very prone to oiling on this early setup. If so, cleaning with isopropanol alchohol will often do the trick.
However, it is just as likely that the sensor is duff. Alex CrowJul 18, What is a live data check?. MAP is too high. With engine off map should read arround On idle 34 to 40max and. When accelerate should be less.2000 Mercedes SLK230 Kompressor: POV Drive
Can you do live data on idle? With lambda and maf reads? And also with engine off but ignition on? Now when I start up the engine revs to to rpm and will not drop to idle speed.Luckily, the R SLK's pump is relatively accessible: unlike cars that have the pumps in their fuel tanks. The fuel pump's job is to supply the engine more than enough fuel in order to maintain pressure.
Circulating excess fuel keeps fluid temperatures lower and inhibits bubbles: the dreaded vapor lock. The ECU controls the fuel pump via the fuel pump relay. Fuel system problems can result from many variables. If the car has spark but won't start, then the culprit is more than likely a fuel problem. Rough idle, stumbling and stalling on hills are other symptoms of fuel-delivery issues. When trouble shooting the fuel pump first you should check that the fuse isn't blown and its relay and other fuel-system components pass their tests.Polyurea foam
Fuel pumps often give a whirring sound as they approach the end of their service life. Other tell tale signs are no fuel at the rail's Schrader valve when cranking the engine. Make sure to have rags and a fire extinguisher handy in case fuel does squirt out.
Also, if the pump is getting power verified with a multi-meter but no fuel is arriving at the engine, the pump could be bad. Corroded terminals can also cause fuel pump malfunction. Potential for fire is always a concern when working on fuel systems. Disconnect the battery's negative cable to minimize possibilities of sparks.
Work in a well-ventilated area away from open flame such as smokers and water-heater pilot lights. Let the car cool down before beginning. Fully heated catalytic converters and ignite combustibles. Always keep a Class B fire extinguisher within arm's reach. Capture gas in an appropriate container.Flutter map class
Relieve pressure from the fuel system before removing the existing fuel pump. Pinching off the suction hose will minimize the amount of spilled gas.I had the same prblm, the solution for me was funny, i just put some oil on the ignition parts under the hood. It was just stucking from dust or rust. Sudhan answered 8 years ago. Lorne answered 8 years ago.
Rough idling can be cause by a couple of things, vacuum leak somewhere in the intake, a dirty throttle body. I would rule out spark plug or spark plug wires only because the rough running would continue when you are driving or possibly gets worst with additional engine load. Yes, Lorne, I really apologize for the website and all readers.
I used the word "ignition" instead of "injection" but I said " under the hood" to make it more clear. My english is not very good : sorry for that, but waht I put oil on is these parts in the picture and the things around i. Thank you for correcting my mistake. Hmmm, so what you're saying is it idles ruff but passed that part of the test and runs smooth off-idle but fails that part because it's running too rich too much fuel. If you had a vacuum leak at the throttle body you'll be running lean not rich as you are now.
You see with a vacuum leak, unmetered air is getting into the engine without passing through the air mass sensor, therefore the computer can't account for that unmetered air and can't calculate the correct fuel trim hence more air than fuel and the car runs lean.
You said you car is running rich more fuel than air so we have to look for things that would make a car run rich.
Check for these things 1. Is your car fully warmed up when you take the emissions test? It has to be at normal operational temp. By design most cars are programed to run rich when cold to get the catalytic converter up to proper temp faster 2. Is your oxygen sensor working properly? Check your OBDII fault code at pep boys, It might not be enough to turn on the engine check light but might still register a pending fault code The engine computer uses this sensor to check how much O2 is in the exhaust and adjust the fuel accordingly.Have had the motor mounts replaced, but this didn't really help.
The vibration is variable and inconsistent - the intensity of the vibrations come and go. My mechanic wants to run test on the individual cylinders, but the tach holds very steady, so it don't think it's an engine issue.
Moving the transmission from D to N does not change the nature of the vibration. Once the car is moving, I can't tell if the vibration goes away, or if it's just masked by the movement of the car. Not a big deal at least right nowbut I know that it shouldn't be happening. It started gradually, but is getting more and more annoying. Any idea what might be causing this? Thanks for any comments! Michael answered 6 years ago. Engine mounts. Rueben answered 2 years ago. The vi Rear wheel drive clk Broke a sway bar link,replaced that,which both newer tired on rear was pealed to wire on both inside tires.
But now new tires,sway bar fixed,now big vibration. And transit It runs great but if I sit at a junction or trafic jam for a couple of mins the car starts to have an eratic tick over as in it tries to lurch forward so hard I have to put it out of drive and in to n ClK Cabrio, Fuses checked for radio- no blown fuses there. No prior issues with the radio until now. Cd changer works fine. Display is completely black.
Content will be removed if CarGurus becomes aware that it violates our policies. Irregular Vibration, noticeable at idle. Report Follow. Mark helpful.If I rev the motor to rpm the problem seems to go away. I am not getting any engine codes. I have since replaced all motor and transmission mounts 3 were broken anyway but this did not make any difference.
I have taken the car to Roger Beasley dealership who had it all day and could not discover the issue. It drives fine. Any electrical load while sitting still seems to make the vibration worse. Lights, fan, AC, power windows, windshield wipers, even pressing the brake pedal.
This is driving me crazy not to mention making me concerned that something serious is about to happen. Any ideas? This sounds as if you have a low idle condition. With a condition such as this, it is normal for it to run rougher when electrical components are tuned on and it is normal for a car to run rough when the idle is to low.
My first instinct here is to clean the throttle bodyfully warm the car, connect a scanner, and command the IAC Idle Air Control valve to move the idle high and low to see how it responds.
My car has miles. My car has an automatic transmission. Robert Kulp Automotive Mechanic. Thank Robert. Other things to consider: It could need a tune-up. This would be ignition components, spark plugsetc.
Good luck! Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback! Sorry about that.Calendario: vista mensile dettagliata: dicembre 2011
Why wasn't this information helpful? Recommended Services. The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified.
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